That’s All of Summer, Folks!

Final blog update before work begins – so probably another hiatus between updates. Still deciding what to do in school holiday breaks. But now back to where I left off…

Leaving Oberammergau

After the excitement of the passion play headed to Innsbruck. After seeing the Lindorhof Castle it was recommended to me to go see another two castle-ish buildings in southern Germany. This was my first real contact with summer queues. There was a massive line to actually get into these places and have a tour. Since I didn’t have forever decided to just walk up to them (actually avoided the easy route this time – got some exercise for a change which is a bit of theme for this blog.)

The first castle is the famous Neuschwanstein Castle that was the basis for a famous Disney movie castle. Any ideas? Here’s an amazing view from a purpose built bridge.

Quite a hike up there but very nice walking and some fantastic mountain biking tracks (as long as you’re heading down – the people heading up were struggling.) Also in the same area was the Hohenschwangau Castle. So with the 6000+ people that are supposedly there on a nice summer day I couldn’t actually get inside. Continued driving through some amazing mountain passes into Austria and arrived in Innsbruck.

Bridge on the River Inn (or Innsbruck…)

Innsbruck is in one of the most beautiful location I have ever seen. It’s nestled in a valley between some imposing mountain ranges on both sides. I was actually staying just on the side of one of these mountains and had a pretty impressive view of the city. Bought an Innsbruck card that allowed you free entry to most stuff as well as a gondala ride up one of the mountains. So headed up one massive mountain and went for a walk/hike. Was great getting outside exercising and seeing snow slopes even if there isn’t any snow at the moment. The lift actually went over the old Olympic bobsled, luge and skeletal suicide sport course. Was quite a hike to the top but had some amazing views both towards Innsbruck and over the other side to some relatively untouched mountain ranges.

(best seat on the mountain top – looking over Innsbruck)

Since I had paid money for the 24 hour Innsbruck card wanted to get the most out of it. After my hike headed down to the city and had a quick look at the Olympic Ski Jump that has been made into a restaurant and bit of a tourist attraction. Very impressive architecture. Certainly one of the sports I am never going to try. I had no idea how steep it was and this photo just doesn’t fully capture the true scale.

(ski jump – not for the fainthearted… perspective dodgy)

Finally got to the actual old part of Innsbruck and whizzed around some of their museums, palaces and churches that were all pretty cool. Also climbed up a bell tower which had a great view of Innsbruck’s claim to world-wide fame. Anyone know? I certainly didn’t…

(the famous (?) Golden roof – viewed from bell tower)

Was still madly rushing around when everything shut down at 6:30pm. Easily spent over double what I paid for the card so was worth it financially and got to see heaps nice and quickly which was all I could do.

Munchen mag Dich (the city’s motto)

Got the trusty GPS thing working again and started to complete the loop back to Munich. Just out off Innsbruck is the Swarovski Crystal Palace. Now I don’t have too much interest in fancy jewellery or crystals but this was recommended and was actually lots of fun. There were some amazing rooms and great lighting and special effects. Favourite room was a mirrored dome that you went inside with some lights that made you feel as though you were inside crystal. Took heaps of photos but the lighting played havoc with my poor camera and they didn’t really work out.

(one photo that kinda worked… some massive piece of jewellery)

This was another place that would be so much better not in the middle of summer peak season. Had to hurry and got in front of some huge tour groups. Big plus was a hedge maze outside, not huge but still fun – I’m still on the lookout for a challenging maze.

Arrived in Munich and it was pretty miserable weather. Another cool city with some impressive buildings. Didn’t have much time but went to the main square Marienplatz which was completely crowded and visited Munich’s Residenz… This was a pretty crazy palace – again was imagining playing laser tag through all the rooms and just getting completely lost. Could easily go back to Munich and get a proper tour to find out the amazing history for this place.

(another mirrored self-portrait in a fantastic palace with never-ending rooms)

‘Summer’ Camp

Arrived back in London with no problems and headed off to help out at a summer camp around South-Western UK. I was one of the mini-bus drivers (was good driving on the right (but actually left) side of the road) and had a great week. Got to do paint-ball, quad-biking, high ropes and other fun stuff. However the weather was extremely dodgy, a cold wind was blowing from the Atlantic and was nothing like the summer camps back home.

Now just getting ready for school starting next week and back to full-time work. I’m not thinking about it too much – seems depressing… 

Passionsspiele 2010

An incredible day – pushing to get into the top ranking days of my whole time spent overseas. Just an amazing experience! But I’m getting ahead of myself. Since some of you may not know too much about this Passion Play in Oberammergau I’m going to do a “10 things you didn’t know about the Passion Play” (the author accepts no liability if there are breaches in the aforementioned claim due to the reader’s own personal knowledge, life experiences or unauthorised wikipedia searches.)

1.     It begun in 1634 

So for those mathematically challenged it’s a tradition now up to 376 years. The play ‘dates back to a vow made in the year 1633. At that time the plague raged in the entire region, including Oberammergau. Many people died. It was then that the people of Oberammergau vowed to portray the “Passion, Death and Resurrection of our Lord Jesus Christ” every ten years. From that moment on not one person succumbed to the Black Death.’ It’s grown from a play performed next to the church to an incredibly important tourist attraction for the whole area.

2.     It only happens every 10 years (kinda…)

Much like the English spelling rule “I before e except after c’ – this rule has a few exceptions. As the top of the class has already figured out – it’s not 2004 or 2014 which from when it begun should be the 10 year performance. In 1680 (the 6^th performance) the play began being performed in the first year of every decade. As the museum guide said when I asked her why this changed, “I was a bit young back then, and don’t actually know…” so no one really knows why. The town also puts on jubilee performances at important milestones (like 300, 350 years etc…) so there will be another performance in 2034. But the next one is 2020.

3.     There are over 2000 performers

It’s a massive stage and when the big groups are on there it’s very impressive. One of my highlights was when Pilate is offering the crowd the choice between freeing Jesus or Barrabas. The crowd is shouting and yelling and that number of people can make a fair amount of noise! Also the triumphal entry at the start into Jerusalem was pretty sweet.

4.     To be part of the play you need to live in the town

Another rule that’s been slightly relaxed but still mostly true. The town isn’t huge – it only has a population of around 6000 so a massive proportion of the Oberammergauians are involved. Would be interesting going to school here – wonder how much time is taken out of schooling when it is passion play year. 

5.     It goes for 6 hours

Starting at 2:30, with a 3-hour break for tea, and then finishing at 11:30. And it still feels as though it’s moving very quickly through the story.   

6.     It involves drama, singing, music and ‘living images’

The first three are self-explanatory and performed to the highest standard. But between each Act (of which there are 11) a choir marches out and sing while a curtain opens and shows for about a minute a living image. These living images are like art but with real people in them acting like statues. They are very unique and add significantly to the play. Since photography was banned I couldn’t get any photos – but they were incredible.

7.     It is performed 5 times a week, from May to October

Can’t be bothered working it out exactly but over 100 performances. They have 2 people for each major role so I assume they swap around so not to get burnt out. But they’ve certainly got the whole process worked out regarding getting the bumbling tourists around this small town.  

8.     How to pronounce Oberammergau

Ignore the way it looks. That was my mistake. Instead this is the best I could come up with after asking way too many people. Say Obama (as in president) gow (rhymes with cow). The obama part is slightly wrong but the best I can come up with… Obama-gow…

There’s actually a German tongue twister involving Oberammergau and a nearby town Unterammergau, and somebody named Hans who doesn't know where he is going. 

9.     It is performed in German

Taking about German pronunciation, the whole 6 hours are in German. Luckily you have a script in English freely given with your ticket. I kept reading ahead though… And with such a late finish it goes dark so luckily had my itty bitty book light. You’d think I’d have learnt some German, but no luck. But managed to follow pretty well except when they went off-script. No fun there. 

10.  Um… Did I mention it was incredible?

Well, I couldn’t reach 10 but I think I had to fill up this blog with something, since it’s nearly indescribable how awesome the play is. It is in today’s terms – LITERALLY EPIC! I have sort of skipped over the personal impact – but that’s another thing that’s difficult to share in a blog. I’ll finish talking about the play with this quote:

“the play is a theatre of the people for the people that reaches deep into life and seeks to convey hope.”

So I’m actually now in Innsbruck and heading to Munich tomorrow. Without having time on the bus to keep up the writing I’m slipping. Will probably have to spend Friday back in London writing/uploading the rest of what I got up to. Here’s a quick summary – climbed up many things…  and tired now.

Mad Composers, Mad Kings and Mad Drivers.

Finally on the road again and a bit of the usual travel madness. 

My Life in London in fewer than 50 words…

Moved into my new house in North London. Close to tube and near enough to work to only require bus travel. Still enjoying holidays with school on break – but craziest thing is happening… I’m kinda looking forward to working again. (Not to say anything about finally getting dependable income…)

London Tourist Part III

Wow – the 3^rd blog about what I’ve been up to in London. Hopefully this 3^rd part of the trilogy is as interesting as Return of the Jedi, and not Shrek 3. Set my sights a bit further afield – and took a day trip to Dover. They have a well-kept castle, which was actually an important site during World War 2 due to a pretty extensive tunnel system burrowed into the white cliffs. Really good tour through there – and interesting showing where the well organised retreat (if you are wearing British rose-coloured glasses) of Dunkirk was controlled from. Also had an impressively old Roman lighthouse on the site. 

(Dover gun, church and castle… tourist gold)

Even went camping with some friends north of London. Was great getting out of London and seeing more of the United Kingdom. Managed to see a beach with real sand. Just had to take my shoes off and experience that feeling again. Wasn’t tempted to go swimming though.

I think I’ve nearly been to every free museum in London. Even went to the London Transport Museum that you had to pay for. Not worth it in my opinion. The free ones are better – such as the RAF Museum. Fantastic exhibits generally, but great learning more about the Battle of Britain.

(Planes, Planes and more planes – no trains or automobiles)

Trip to Continental Europe

Finally got the travel bug again (actually was more about getting organised) and left for a week around Austria and Germany. Flew into Munich with no problems – which is somewhat surprising since I flew with BA. It was getting a bit tricky with public transports and trains so hired a car. Had to pay extra for a GPS but wow – this is the first time I’ve really used one (Yes I know… Welcome to the 21^st century…) and once I managed to find the English setting its been fantastic. Nearly gave up after trying every wrong option and thought I’d be learning some basic German.

Salzburg

First stop for two nights was Salzburg. Quite a few claims to fame here – Mozart was born here and The Sound of Music was filmed around here. So the usual suspects of tourist based enterprises are present – including massive numbers of the Mozart chocolate balls. They’re everywhere! Didn’t subject myself to a Sound of Music tour – but the hostel I was staying at played the movie every night. Somehow managed to miss that as well… such a shame. Favourite piece of tourist merchandise – the “Austria – no kangaroos” t-shirt.

But I did get to 3 concerts. Salzburg has a pretty famous festival of music that’s been going for 90 years. I would just rock up and see if there were any tickets available and since travelling solo was very lucky. Certainly got some variety.

1.    Between Gestural Moments and Sound Symbolism 

      The first night I went to this amazing church for a 20-30 piece orchestra performing a collection of songs that were given the title above. If anyone understands what it’s trying to say could they message me? It sounded like the soundtrack to a Lost episode or a B grade horror movie. Not the usual classical music. A lot of expressive silence and then loud crashes with some creepy solos. The composer was there as well – getting applause at the end of the performance. Maybe I like classical music written before myself, my parents, my grandparents or even my great-grandparents were born.

2.    Thank God for Mozart…

      Second concert was just a piano, clarinet and soprano singer performing some Mozart and Chopin. Thank goodness… Very classy and made me want to play piano again. And learn how to play the clarinet. And learn how to sing like that – I mean how hard could it be. Maybe the last one is slightly too high to reach.

3.   World Orchestra for Peace (W.O.P)

     The final night I was there managed to get a ticket to a full orchestra in their main hall. Now we’re talking. Was slightly underdressed since I didn’t bring my suit. This special orchestra was only performing here and in London this year. I’m a bit ignorant about the quality of a performance but in my humble opinion it was superb. And the applause requiring the conductor to return 4 times may be a sign that it at least was acceptable. However after reading the guide the conductor was supposedly ‘skirting schizophrenia’ when he wrote this symphony. Wonder what it would have sounded like if he had been sane.

Saw more of Salzburg then music – unfortunately it was raining pretty heavily so not great photos of this beautiful city. Fantastic churches, fountains and cobbled old streets. Went to the Fortress overlooking the whole town and took tons of photos. But I like this… my audio-guide said something about cabbages in relation to this house. Can’t remember now.

(Does this guy just dislike neighbours, or do they dislike him?)

Could have spent the whole week here – missed so much but had a date with a once every 10 year event!

Back to Germany

Left Salzburg without doing anything more due to the pouring rain. Plugged the next destination into my new best friend and off we went. And joined the traffic jam. Last time in Europe on the bus at least I could sleep, read, sleep, talk to people or sleep. Not as exciting when I can only listen to German radio. Finally left the rain and returned to Germany and after cutting west ended up in the sun on an Autobahn.

Now I’m a 10% over the speed limit driver in Australia. (Most of the time… only been caught twice by police doing more and never on a freeway). Joined this autobahn and hardly any traffic. Was moving along at a speed that would have resulted in a hefty fine back in Australia when I was swiftly overtaken by some Germans. Thought I’d try and make up some time from the traffic debacle previously. Got my hire car going at a speed that would have definitely resulted in an automatic loss of my licence back home and was still being overtaken. Unfortunately the Ford Fiesta isn’t a racing machine but was still a highlight.

Linderhof Palace

My stop for the day was this palace of Mad King Ludwig (somewhat interesting fellow). A fairly small palace but beautiful. The grounds were fantastic as well. A photographer’s dream location with gardens, fountains and statues.

(Finally, the sun makes an appearance. Amazing fountain and palace)

Also had a man-made cave or grotto. Even the cave has some incredible artwork with an interesting feel to the place.

Ettal

So now we’ve reached the present. I’m in the small village of Ettal that is just near Oberammergau in southern Germany. For those who haven’t heard of Oberammergau it’s the location of a Passion Play which only occurs every 10 years. It has an amazing story that I’ll share later but I’m really looking forward to the performance of 2,500 people tomorrow, starting at 2:30pm and finishing at 11pm.