Passionsspiele 2010

An incredible day – pushing to get into the top ranking days of my whole time spent overseas. Just an amazing experience! But I’m getting ahead of myself. Since some of you may not know too much about this Passion Play in Oberammergau I’m going to do a “10 things you didn’t know about the Passion Play” (the author accepts no liability if there are breaches in the aforementioned claim due to the reader’s own personal knowledge, life experiences or unauthorised wikipedia searches.)

1.     It begun in 1634 

So for those mathematically challenged it’s a tradition now up to 376 years. The play ‘dates back to a vow made in the year 1633. At that time the plague raged in the entire region, including Oberammergau. Many people died. It was then that the people of Oberammergau vowed to portray the “Passion, Death and Resurrection of our Lord Jesus Christ” every ten years. From that moment on not one person succumbed to the Black Death.’ It’s grown from a play performed next to the church to an incredibly important tourist attraction for the whole area.

2.     It only happens every 10 years (kinda…)

Much like the English spelling rule “I before e except after c’ – this rule has a few exceptions. As the top of the class has already figured out – it’s not 2004 or 2014 which from when it begun should be the 10 year performance. In 1680 (the 6^th performance) the play began being performed in the first year of every decade. As the museum guide said when I asked her why this changed, “I was a bit young back then, and don’t actually know…” so no one really knows why. The town also puts on jubilee performances at important milestones (like 300, 350 years etc…) so there will be another performance in 2034. But the next one is 2020.

3.     There are over 2000 performers

It’s a massive stage and when the big groups are on there it’s very impressive. One of my highlights was when Pilate is offering the crowd the choice between freeing Jesus or Barrabas. The crowd is shouting and yelling and that number of people can make a fair amount of noise! Also the triumphal entry at the start into Jerusalem was pretty sweet.

4.     To be part of the play you need to live in the town

Another rule that’s been slightly relaxed but still mostly true. The town isn’t huge – it only has a population of around 6000 so a massive proportion of the Oberammergauians are involved. Would be interesting going to school here – wonder how much time is taken out of schooling when it is passion play year. 

5.     It goes for 6 hours

Starting at 2:30, with a 3-hour break for tea, and then finishing at 11:30. And it still feels as though it’s moving very quickly through the story.   

6.     It involves drama, singing, music and ‘living images’

The first three are self-explanatory and performed to the highest standard. But between each Act (of which there are 11) a choir marches out and sing while a curtain opens and shows for about a minute a living image. These living images are like art but with real people in them acting like statues. They are very unique and add significantly to the play. Since photography was banned I couldn’t get any photos – but they were incredible.

7.     It is performed 5 times a week, from May to October

Can’t be bothered working it out exactly but over 100 performances. They have 2 people for each major role so I assume they swap around so not to get burnt out. But they’ve certainly got the whole process worked out regarding getting the bumbling tourists around this small town.  

8.     How to pronounce Oberammergau

Ignore the way it looks. That was my mistake. Instead this is the best I could come up with after asking way too many people. Say Obama (as in president) gow (rhymes with cow). The obama part is slightly wrong but the best I can come up with… Obama-gow…

There’s actually a German tongue twister involving Oberammergau and a nearby town Unterammergau, and somebody named Hans who doesn't know where he is going. 

9.     It is performed in German

Taking about German pronunciation, the whole 6 hours are in German. Luckily you have a script in English freely given with your ticket. I kept reading ahead though… And with such a late finish it goes dark so luckily had my itty bitty book light. You’d think I’d have learnt some German, but no luck. But managed to follow pretty well except when they went off-script. No fun there. 

10.  Um… Did I mention it was incredible?

Well, I couldn’t reach 10 but I think I had to fill up this blog with something, since it’s nearly indescribable how awesome the play is. It is in today’s terms – LITERALLY EPIC! I have sort of skipped over the personal impact – but that’s another thing that’s difficult to share in a blog. I’ll finish talking about the play with this quote:

“the play is a theatre of the people for the people that reaches deep into life and seeks to convey hope.”

So I’m actually now in Innsbruck and heading to Munich tomorrow. Without having time on the bus to keep up the writing I’m slipping. Will probably have to spend Friday back in London writing/uploading the rest of what I got up to. Here’s a quick summary – climbed up many things…  and tired now.