Tuesday, October 25, 2011

Mosi-Oa-Tunya or the ‘Smoke that Thunders’

Another one of the holiday within the holiday times – setting up for 3 nights at the same place and getting a chance to experience the excitement of the place. There were lots of adventure options such as white-water rafting, bungy-jumping and gorge swinging but just couldn’t get excited about paying for them. If they were free would have done everything but thought I’d save for money for other adventures/comforts.



Victoria Falls – the Town

We stayed at a fairly big campsite with a nice pool and bar. Lots of overland trucks. After getting through Zimbabwe without too many pushy salesman I’ve realised they’ve all moved to Victoria Falls. Don’t know how many carved animals, wooden salad spoons and bowls, billion dollar notes and even illegal drugs I had to say no to. Did buy some old Zimbabwean dollar notes (ranging from $1 up to $100 trillion. So many zeros…)

First day just spent relaxing by the pool – enjoyed buying my own food since our cook had the 3 days off. And having a different breakfast was an exciting development. In the afternoon ventured out and went to the very British/Colonial ‘Victoria Falls Hotel’. Felt a bit of a fraud walking in my sandals and shorts with the workers dressed very nicely and some in military outfits with medals.

Joined a group for high tea – had some fantastic mocktails and since we had an odd number of people (and high tea was to share; and I’m not much of a tea-man) I decided to have another British dessert – an Eton Mess. So much strawberries, cream and meringue. Just a taste of how you can visit Africa with all the creature comforts of home – and then some! Tried not to think of the days left to go in my tent.

Wandered around the grounds – the Hotel was a stop on Cecil Rhode’s hopeful railway that was to connect Cape Town to Cairo (and be British controlled the whole way). We have 1647 miles to go till Cape Town (if direct) and if we headed in the other direction it would be a massive 5165 miles to travel to get to Egypt’s capital. So yes, Africa is a big place.

Another interesting piece of history is the bridge crossing the gorge connecting Zimbabwe to Zambia (or Southern Rhodesia to Northern Rhodesia back in the day). Visited this engineering feat later in the trip.



(Looking from Hotel towards Bridge connecting countries)

The Falls

The undisputed highlight of this area – the very impressive Victoria Falls. They claim it as one of the 7 Natural Wonders of the World (including Great Barrier Reef so I’ll agree with them…) and it’s an amazing sight to see. It was at low-water level and there still was a massive amount of water flowing over. Would be interested to see what it was like at high-water – but think you would get very wet! At least most of the time we were reasonably dry.



(in front of the Main Falls)

We’ve been joking about the amount of photos we take of the same thing – I could have a massive folder of photos of elephants, rocks, sunsets and now waterfalls… Would like to go visit Niagara Falls and the major one in South America (major mind blank atm) and see how they compare. Reading the information around Vic Falls they each have their own claim to fame to be the ‘Biggest’ in the world in that category.

Most of the viewing platforms (see previous photos) have a bit of a fence to try and keep the tourists from joining the Darwin Awards – but luckily (and dangerously if you bought a school group here) there is a section where you can go right to the edge. Since there weren’t many people there we had a lot of time to try and get the most dangerous position possible. There were some interesting ‘planking’ photos but since I have to uphold the ‘responsible teacher’ ethos I avoided joining in the excitement. Instead got this photo with the main falls behind me and Zambia over my left shoulder.



(posing on the Edge)



One adventure activity I would have tried if I realised it was offered was swimming at the top of the falls. There’s a naturally created pool with a rock wall right on the edge of the falls – safe to swim there and tour groups visit there but looks very impressive. One of our group did go and they hold your ankles while you look over the edge. Somewhat exciting…



(Devil’s Pool swimming (aptly named) – 100 metres above the bottom of the falls)



Zambia

With Zambia being so close a group of us headed over to another country. Crossed the bridge (avoiding/ignoring the people trying to get us to bungy jump), caught a taxi into the town of Livingstone. Town wasn’t that exciting – we were the only white people we saw, the others might all be hiding in the nice resorts we passed on the way in. Don’t know whether this is due to tourism reverting back to Zimbabwe now that’s settled down a bit. Since Victoria Falls (the town) was a no-go zone for a few years anyone wanting to visit the falls would have had to stay at Livingstone and it’s showing the lack of those tourists now. Had to get another currency out just to pay for lunch (didn’t accept USD) but was a bit of an adventure.



(entering Zambia on Bridge)
Leaving Victoria Falls

A part of our group left us at Victoria Falls and a few new people joined us. Finally got a double seat to myself which is very nice. Left Zimbabwe and headed into Botswana for the final 2 countries before South Africa.



Week Ahead

Thurs, 20th of Oct Chobe National Park, Botswana

Fri, 21st of Oct Chobe National Park

Sat, 22nd of Oct Bagani Community Camp, Namibia

Sun, 23rd of Oct Okavango Delta, Botswana

Mon, 24th of Oct Okavango Delta

Tues, 25th of Oct Bagani Community Camp, Namibia

Wed, 26th of Oct Grootfontein

























































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